AW19 LOOKBOOK

A LOOKBOOK FROM SEVERAL DIFFERENT PROJECTS DEVELOPED IN 2019. TINNERS ARMS: YATES LOOKED INTO 'THE TINNERS ARMS' PUB IN ZENNOR, CORNWALL, UK. YATES STUDIED THE PUB AND NOTED THE PEOPLE WHO WOULD USE THIS PUB ON A DAY TO DAY BASIS, WALKERS. THROUGH PATTERN CUTTING AND MATERIAL USE, YATES JUXTAPOSED THE PEOPLE WHO THE PUB WAS ORIGINALLY FOUNDED FOR (MINERS), AND COMPARED THEM TO THE WALKERS. ECO-FREAK: A NEGATIVE NAME TO CONTRAST TO HOW USING SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS AND RECYCLING IS A HUGELY POSITIVE PROCESS. EVERY PIECE MADE UNDER THIS CONCEPT WAS 100% RECYCLED. USING COFFEE BAGS FOUND AROUND LONDON, YATES HAND DYED THEM NATURALLY AND RE-CONSTRUCTED THEM BACK TOGETHER TO CREATE A 'VEGAN FAUX-FUR' MATERIAL. THE TROUSERS WERE CREATED USING ORGANIC RECYCLED COTTON, AND THE UNDER-LAYERING WAS CREATED BY RECYCLING DUCT-TAPE AND USING YATES' OWN TECHNIQUE TO TURN THIS INTO A 100% WATERPROOF FABRIC. MOTHERS LITTLE HELPERS: YATES LOOKED BACK INTO THE 60S HOUSEWIVES AND HOW THE UNDERLYING STRESS AND CONSTANT STEREOTYPES OF BEING A 'PROPER WOMAN', CAUSED DRUG ABUSE AND ADDICTION. MOTHERS LITTLE HELPERS WAS A TERM FOR VALIUM AND WAS TAKEN BY HOUSEWIVES TO HELP WITH 'HYSTERIA' AND SEVERE STRESS. WITH REFLECTION OF THE STEREOTYPES OF A 'NORMAL' FAMILY, YATES LOOKED INTO THE ROLES OF THE MALE IN THE SITUATIONS AND REFLECTED BOTH TOGETHER TO CREATE TEXTILES GRAPHICS, WITH OVERLAPPING SILHOUETTES AND ILLUSTRATION. RUSSIAN PRISONERS: YATES LOOKED INTO RUSSIAN PRISONS, THE UNIFORM OF THE PRISONERS JUXTAPOSED WITH PRISON GUARDS, WHICH IN TURN, CREATE OVERLAPPING SILHOUETTES WITH JAGGED PIECES TO REFLECT THE HARSH JUXTAPOSITION IN POWER ALONGSIDE FACE VALUE UNIFORMS. YATES THEN DEVELOPED PRINTS TAKEN DIRECTLY FROM RUSSIAN PRISONERS AND EMBROIDERED THEM ONTO THE OUTER SHELL, USING 'FLESH' TONED WOOL TO CLOSELY MAKE CONNECTIONS TO THE SKIN IN WHICH THESE TATTOOS ARE ON.