British Fashion Council x Charles Jeffrey

  • Caólum McCabe
  • Blumr Design

Using Charles most recent collection at the time, ss20 "Minds instructions" candidates had to draw inspiration from this as an initital starting point and design a capsule collection consisting of 8-10 garmenst reflecting not only their own individuality, but expressing many of Charles beliefs; gender identity, diversity, tangibility and historical references rendered intrinsically modern. Using the British Library’s online archive I indulged in LGBT+ subject matter and was fascinated by the Native American culture "Zunis” whom celebrated gender identity and sexuality across the spectrum. This inspired a body of work personal to me, specifcally my childhood and the transformative power I found within “dress up”.

Concept Building.
Concept Building

Research collage work building ideas around feminity and masculinity. As children we are drawn to things, and without realising we unapologetically express our true selves. As a child you’re totally unaware of heteronormativity and you very simply and honestly respond to your thoughts without the fear of judgement. With maturity however, you become more alert to your surroundings and the corners of the box that society wants to place you in.
Concept building

With the invasion of Christianity, heteronormative ideals were brought in to bring order and rule namely around gender identity for those with a lack of understanding and a literal interpretation of the word of god. Water colour and collage study expressing the theme of conforming.

Initial design work

Drawing ideas from personal research and the heterosexual landscape projected in the Disney movies by artist Eyvind Earle who created luminous textured backdrops. The puzzle of pants or the dilemma of the dress. Key Zuni figure We' wha was burried in both a dress and pants which was such a profund burial, synonymous of their spirit which was both masculine and feminine.
Inital design development

Initial design work, studying the drape work adorned by key Zuni figure We’ wha who championed both masculinity and feminity.
Design and collage development.
Design and print development

Considering the layers depicted as “fault lines” in SS20 Loverboy, the bold use of colour and dynamic shape brings to mind the artwork of Eyvind Earle who provided the heterosexual landscape for many of the Disney animations. Creating backdrops in such a way that all the attention was placed on male (dominance) and female (submissive). Textile, print and deisgn development.
Drape work exploration inspired by the winding tree trunks illustrated by Eyvind Earle, combining accessory ideas informed by childhood dress-up polaroids.
Textile exploration

Using the shapes found within the ceramics created by We ‘wha (a skill herald by women with the Zuni tribe) to influence further design work and textile exploration.
Collage work.
Final line-up.
Final line-up
Images from the evening event at the British Library with the shorltisted candidates, Charles Jeffrey and members of the British Fashion Council.

Project Tags


  • British Fashion Council logo

    British Fashion Council

    • Fashion and Textiles
  • Graduate Fashion Foundation logo

    Graduate Fashion Foundation

    • Fashion and Textiles
  • C

    Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY