FW23 Through the Spilling Glass

Olivia Rubens focuses inward to create a collection inspired by her ADHD diagnosis layered upon her experiences with anxiety and depression. Rubens channels these experiences and emotions, inviting the audience to delve into her world and celebrate the beauty of chaos and rebellion. “This collection is a rebellion against the ways designers and those in the fashion industry 'should' work, against behaviors and ways of expressing that are 'unacceptable' in societal norms, against all the bullshit the industry throws in our faces, against the 'status quo'," says Rubens. "It's an expression of my brain, the beauty and the mess– intimate yet familiar to many.” By defying norms and expectations, Rubens’s showcases her unapologetic approach to self-expression. Drawing inspiration from her journey of self-discovery, Rubens uses her designs to challenge the status quo, push boundaries, and redefine what it means to be a fashion designer in a problematic yet limitless industry. The collection features silhouettes that reflect Rubens's impulsivity, lack of social cues, and warped sense of self. From plated ribs that confuse the eye to knit designs inspired by traditional American and Japanese tattoos, the pieces tell a story of spiraling emotions and chaotic worlds. Rubens takes cues from her mental and punk background, adorning balaclavas and knits with in-your-face piercings and her signature stretched ears and weights. Visual references from artists who have redefined how they see and portray themselves, also inform the mood, lines, and color palette this season. Rubens explores themes of rebellion and self-expression on an ecological level. The knits are made using responsibly made fibers such as organic cotton and traceable, ethical alpaca from Peru. Rubens also upcycles carefully chosen athletic wear for the season, introducing her love for the outdoors into her range. FW23 is a personal love letter– reminding Rubens to show self-love and compassion. It is also a call to her army of rebels to continue fighting for change and challenging the ordinary ways of doing things.