INRECON/SOLARIS / JENS_LAUGESEN AW 22 / FILM by Jens Laugesen, Jean-Francois Carly and Maxim Young
Departing from what he describes as a “fascination with the utopian unisex concept of clothing”, London-based designer Jens Laugesen yesterday presented the first chapter in a design trilogy titled INRECON. For the debut of the series, SOLARIS, he paired up with photographer and film director Jean-Francois Carly and film editor Maxim Young on a film shot in the brutalist bowels of The Rowe, a building close to the designer’s home that he witnessed being de- and reconstructed over the course of the pandemic.
INRECON/SOLARIS / JENS_LAUGESEN / AW22 COLLECTION / FILM / PRESS RELEASE / /
For AW/22, the conceptual designer starts a new trilogy under the INRECON title – with reference to the re/deconstruction process, he is refocussing his creative practice of re/deconstruction and core DNA on conceptual gender-free tailoring that originates from his fascination with the utopian unisex concept of clothing. IN RECONSTRUCTION is the designer's response to re-appropriating iconic generic garments such as the oversize men's jacket by slice cutting seams to offer more movement and folding surplus of fabric to generate organic folds that adapt to the body underneath. A generic classic 80s trench coat slice cut can be turned inside out to become more feminine reversible couture-like bolero jackets and wraparound skirts. Another trench coat reveals seams and garment layers of textile and structure. Oversize men's shirts are twisted and stitched to hold organic folds in place and redefine new silhouette and proportion. Jens Laugesen is also proposing a series of tailoring seam garments reconstructed from existing patterns to generate mobile structure clothing in layered silhouettes as a reference to the piece they originated from.
The INRECON 01 / SOLARIS references the visionary dark/poetic vision of Andrei Tarkovski and is used as an optimist/pessimistic metaphor for the pandemic that has challenged us all. The collection features an ongoing collaboration with long time creative partners photographer/film director Jean Francois Carly and film editor Maxim Young. INRECON/SOLARIS documents the AW 22 collection on a wo/man styled in similar manners, looking for each other inside a sci-fi resembling dystopian narrative, which unfolds itself on location inside The Rowe, a neighbouring graded brutalist building that the he witnessed in re/construction during the pandemic. In 6 juxtaposed scenes, the time-lapse narrative shows in an in-between-manner, both the ending of the past tense that was and the beginning of a future present that may be post deconstruction; as a metaphor to the present uncertain, challenging times we are living, all in an open-ended manner like a Moebius Strip.
True to the designer's metamodern interest of oscillating between the past and present, combining a long-standing fascination with utopian concepts of futurism. The industrial setting set the non-inhabited space for dystopian/poetic documentation of the gender-free garments with an androgynous/inclusive casting showing the silhouettes evolve in a sci-fi infused setting playing with silhouette proportion and gender.
Tailored garments are reworked/layered into metamodern looks and built in a holistic, sustainable manner from existing found garments that are re-appropriated for a focused capsule line-up of strong conceptual tailored silhouettes.
Reconstructed heritage fisherman jumpers from S.N.S. HERNING are shown in androgynous silhouettes mixing jackets with oversized slit slice cut tailored trousers and bespoke cape sleeve accessories in leather and gender-neutral re/deconstructed fur pieces made in collaboration with SAGA FURS. Futuristic undertones are layered in 'Star Wars' inspired silhouettes with deconstructed tailoring jackets trench sleeves accessories that are covered with seam garments belted at the waist, worn with gender neutral skin-tight gloves from RHANDERS - one of the oldest glove manufacturers in the world from Denmark. The AW22 collection also features first art collaboration with Swedish artist Erika Trotzig that combines her composed wood frame structures with the designer's signature re/deconstructed tailored
seam structure pieces.
FASHION UNITED AGAINST WAR /
I feel a bit uncomfortable presenting a new fashion film project in the middle of the current aggression by Russia of Ukraine, as it is an assault against humanity and the world peace that we all stand for. But at the same time, I hope the INRECON/SOLARIS film can convey an optimistic view on a dystopian future. as I feel that without hope, we are nothing. It is inspired by the subtle subversive art of Russian Film Maker Andrey Tarkovski, who himself became a dissident of the Soviet State toward the end of his career.
Art and Fashion plays an essential role in this situation. It translates feelings and emotions into the visual and contextual narrative, commenting in a metamodern oscillating manner on what may end and what may come.
I am therefore joining side with the global call for action as launched by 1GRANARY, uniting the entire Fashion Industry to use its soft creative power and global platform to react creatively to the present, to express our solidarity with Ukraine, to voice our opinions, concerns and help the crisis as unified creative collective.
TOGETHER WE STAND WITH UKRAINE UNITED AGAINST WAR / /
MAKE LOVE AND ART NOT WAR / / /
💙💙💙💛💛💛
INRECON / SOLARIS PROJECT LIVE @ /.
https://londonfashionweek.co.uk/designers/jens-laugesen
http://inreconstruction.com
CREDITS/
Creative Director / Jens Laugesen /
Film Director / Photography / Jean-Francois Carly /
Film Editor / Maxim Young / Gorilla Editors /
Director of Photography / Cameraman / Dan Berens /
Film Colourist / Alan Mahon / Gorilla Editors / Fashion Film Colour /
Talent / Ivy @ Select Model Management / Kiri @ Supa Model Management /
Casting / Camilla Bigler / Bigler-Beadsworth Creative Curation /
Sound Design / Composition / Gustave Robic /
Film Hair/MUA / Kentaro Kondo / Rumi Kagotani /
Look-book Hair/MUA / Dawn Ray / Mai Sato /
Look Book Film Editor Biki Gurung / Gorilla Editors /
Look-book Video Camera / Claudia Ramos /
Assistant Editor / Caden Steed / Gorilla Editors /
Creative Director Assistants / Cristina Iovanescu / Robin Hubert /
Film Video Assistant / Claudia Ramos /
Styling Assistant / Papharda Jindawuthiku /
Fine Art / Erika Trotzig /
INRECON/SOLARIS is filmed on location inside THE ROWE building in construction site.
With special thanks to the teams of /
THE ROWE / https://therowe.london
FRASERS PROPERTY / BAM CONSTRUCTION /
IG / @jens_laugesen_official / @jens_laugesen_archive
https://jenslaugesendesign.com
SUPPORTED by /
LONDON FASHION WEEK / CLEARPAY /
DANISH ARTS FOUNDATION / STATENS KUNSTFOND /
SAGA FURS / GORILLA EDITORS / S.N.S. HERNING / RHANDERS /
THE ROWE / FRASERS PROPERTY / BAM CONSTRUCTION /
