PYLOT Magazine Online: Mary Benson AW16

For Autumn/Winter 2016, Mary Benson took us to a gig - her own one; her name penned across jersey, and heat-pressed in vinyl onto the sheer tops of her eclectic, electric fans. They wore neon in 90s silhouettes, clashing and layered with indigo denim and oversized stripes, as they manned the merchandise stall and crashed the stage at renowned music venue, 100 Club. Underscoring her collections with a personal, theatrical narrative, this season drew from the punk-pop of the 90s: Greenday, Blink 182 and Avril Lavigne informing a thrown-together look of sweet ruffles and unapologetic grunge - stay up all night nostalgia with a sinister twist. Citing Buffy the Vampire Slayer as influence for her teenage tear-away collection, aptly named 'Not Sorry', there was a sense of misfit, awkward youth underlined with a sexual frisson. Sleeves fall self-consciously low on wrists; midriffs are bared under black sheers and pink ruffles; wide leg jeans cut high up the leg and spaghetti strap dresses high on the thigh. The atmosphere is euphoric in this underground basement bar - noisy and dark, the stage lined with glow-in-the-dark stars like a teenager's bedroom ceiling. Morning after eyes and the angst of youth are etched into fabrics by embroidery artist Aniela Fidler, and Mary Benson's affinity with writing stories into fabric realised in shimmering, ethereal galaxies of memories and stars.