ss22 photosynthesize x post carbon lab x machine-a

  • Olivia Rubens

In order to grow, plants absorb water, sunlight and carbon dioxide to create oxygen and energy in the form of sugar. But who’s to say the process of photosynthesis should be bound to what grows in the soil beneath our feet? MACHINE-A collaborates with positive knitwear designer Olivia Rubens on Photosynthesize, a collection that transforms garments into living organisms. Made with and to be sold exclusively at MACHINE-A, central to the Photosynthesize collection is a focus on morality and communal bonding in the aftermath of the global pandemic. For Photosynthesize, Rubens expands on her playful, yet twistingly humorous, study on human nature, indebted to making clothing that will leave a positive impact on both the planet and the people that wear her designs. With MACHINE-A, the designer expands on her ingenious developments in bio design. Taking her cues from 18th century garments and Rococo excess, Rubens examines unforeseen consequences stemmed from the greed and ignorance of bygone generations, using waste and found objects to piece together a collection that finds beauty in the mundane. Inspired by Kintsugi, Rubens fashions her collection through ethical alpaca, Tencel, organic wool and linen and GOTS organic cotton – married with vintage crochet lace tablecloths, old ceramic kitchenware, empty shampoo and household cleaner bottles. Upon closer inspection, you can see remnants of the past lives of these upcycled materials, from barcodes to instruction stickers, each melted into hand-moulded trims. The focal point to the collection is a series of green garments that are photosynthesis coated with Post Carbon Lab, giving each the qualities to live and breathe like plants. All of these pieces give off oxygen and absorb carbon dioxide, and require indirect sunlight and regular misting to maintain their climate positivity. Knitted in Italy and sewn in the UK – with some pieces sculpted in Canada – Rubens worked with Manusa, a company in Pistoia, Italy which employs refugees and women from unfortunate circumstances, as well as Making For Change, an organisation which employs women both in and rehabilitating from prison.