16Arlington’s Autumn Winter 21 collection tells the story of party girls and their frivolous pastimes being restrained, taking a darker turn and materialising into their insectoid instinctive counterparts for survival. Marco Capaldo and Federica Cavenati found inspiration this season from Hupert Durprat, particularly his Caddis collection, showing Caddisfly larvae embellished in a cocoon of rare metals and stones as an exploration of the sought after and the undesirable. All the trappings of the designer duo’s eternal fascination with the balance of ‘trash’ and emotional handmade details are instead used to secure and fasten. The hook and eye corsetry, exposed zips and low hanging wide belts signal the spirit of 90s parties. The massive earrings showing a more defensive interpretation of the arch and grace of the brand’s trademark ostrich feathers, and like the party goers in their heyday, stoned to the extreme. Furthermore, Capaldo and Cavenati clearly have fun reimagining an ostrich through their black to-the-floor dress with a bountiful plumage of their trademark. Expanding on their minimalist shapes with movement enhancing ruffles, the slim fitting dresses shine with an ethereal elegance of rare stones found in clear water. Aside from these, the collection keeps to an earthy colour palette of intense blues, oranges, browns and blacks. Taking timeless womenswear staples and giving it a twist of the unhinged, the core of creeping madness is something I did not see coming. A sense of nature and nurture cross-pollinating a la Annihilation. It makes me think of the signs of armour and protection I have subconsciously incorporated into an outfit when I leave the house once a week, considering the current state of the world. It’s in the exaggerated pointed collars on the shirts guarding the neck and almost blending like camouflage into monochromatic ensembles. The squared off boots with orange tips against a crocodile skin coordinated set. The boxy and practical bag with the oversized coats that will guard them from the most biting of gales. The all cobalt leather shift dress as daring armour. Every clasp and attachment in the collection is attached and tightened. The crystal flowers blooming out of the inky brocade in full length coats. My favourite has to be the black leather double breasted suit. Loose enough to wear comfortably but guided by the sleek and straight fit tailoring to keep it effortless and an absolute staple
Companies
London Fashion Week
- Fashion and Textiles
