Arts University Bournemouth In Collaboration With Vivienne Westwood

The collaboration began in 2018 when AUB graduate Alice Kiernander won the Vivienne Westwood x Lectra Iconic Redesign Competition at Graduate Fashion Week. Alice’s designs were based on 18th century painting, and incorporated elements of tailoring with an emphasis on zero waste pattern cutting. After Alice’s win, Vivienne Westwoods digital pattern cutter who selected the award winners was intrigued by the new ways in which AUB were using production software to prototype and design garments in both a sustainable and creative way, this led to the potential of a live project between the brand and undergraduate fashion students at AUB. AUB Digital Fashion specialist Penelope Norman, said: “Traditionally Vivienne Westwood hadn’t been using the virtual prototyping side of design software to visualise and design garments. In collaborating with the university, the idea would be that the brand would benefit from our research into 3D virtual prototyping and sustainable design process whilst also offering the students the opportunity to work with a high-profile designer with a truly conscious approach. "Working with Julia was an invaluable opportunity for the students and also inspired further the development of the Digital Fashion MA we were developing at the time – having the input and recognition of the importance of the MA that has a requirement for students to embrace conscious and sustainable practice from a practicing digital pattern cutter from such a well recognised brand was hugely encouraging". Vivienne Westwood’s Creative Digital Pattern Cutter Julia Eberdhart came to AUB and gave presentations with archive pieces from the designer’s collection to inspire the students. The students then used this to shape their research, looking at different eras and the ways in which Vivienne’s team use patterns and artwork and social context to influence their work. The project was so successful that after its completion in June, three second year BA (Hons) Fashion students were offered work placements at Vivienne Westwood, as well the offer to work attend and assist with the show during Paris Fashion Week. In July, the university named Dame Westwood as one of their Honorary Fellows, a title bestowed upon those who have made an outstanding contribution in the fields of art, performance, design and media.

Shot from Finale Runnway

Outfit One "Unisex Europa Shirting" walks the final catwalk.
Concept development and sketchbook building

The artistic imagination of the Greeks was used to achieve the large number of draped arrangements using the same, basic, piece of cloth that was a square. Westwoods ethos on cutting surrounding simple shapes for drape, was heavily influenced by Grecian fashion. This became a pivotal reference for Westwood throughout her career, paticulalry for her ethos surrounding pattern cutting. Inspired by "The Rape of Europa" by the Italian artist Titian and the depiction of cloth and violence, this was the foreground for my teams design work.
Print development

Consideirng shape and form for print and subtraction cutting through colour blocking and collage work.
Design development.
Collage print work depicting the aged painting and colours making up Titians depcition of "The Rape of Europa".
Colour palette and textile exploration.
Design developments

The first drapery that the Western civilisation fell in love with was the greek drapery. Some ideal was of naturalness, invented by the sculptors through their folds. But then you get the fabric beginning to flutter, float and fly off, seperating from the body and forming shapes. The use of drapery in paintings, particularly in the Renaissance adds this air of being.
Toile fittings for look 1 with model Zoe De Boer.
Shot from Finale Runnway

Look 1 on the final catwalk.
Shot from Finale Runnway

Look 2 on the final catwalk.

Project Tags

Companies

  • Arts University Bournemouth logo

    Arts University Bournemouth

    • Arts and Culture
  • Graduate Fashion Foundation logo

    Graduate Fashion Foundation

    • Fashion and Textiles
  • Vivienne Westwood logo

    Vivienne Westwood

    • Fashion and Textiles

Skills