The Autumn Winter collection from interdisciplinary artist Dimitra Petsa builds on her trademark wet look garments that caused such a stir from modern icons such as FKA Twigs and Gigi Hadid with a focus on female self care that is radically accepting of all the facets that are sometimes shunned. Evolving from her research through ‘wetness workshops’ which focused on releasing all shame from the female relationship with water in all forms, the resulting collection and accompanying film reminds me of nymphs from Greek mythology, at once sensual and powerful far beyond the understanding of mere mortals. Making a considered effort to include more maternity wear with this collection, the accessible design adapted from corset designs are realised in deeply tactile materials with immaculate details. The gold beading from previous seasons now guides the eye along the classical lines of the models, reimagining draping reminiscent of a more empathic response of the tale of Echo and Narcissus - ourselves being reflected in the water. The short film directed by Petsa, rendering a very real and tactile setting against an artificial blue backdrop with a heavenly light from above; the moss, pond and white rocks mirroring the base tones of the colour palette, even translating this through denim sometimes making adaptations for maternity wear. On a personal note, this outright celebration of the form is a welcome rebuttal to the antiquated view of awkward adjustment that is unfairly pressed on the subject. If I may be so bold, the ensembles that celebrate maternity in all its divinity are the best part of this collection! The white embellished set with corsetry exquisitely curving around the bump - good goddesses, this is really excellent. The inky blue dresses sewn to resemble the aforementioned wet look bestows a transcendental power to whoever wears it. The seeing eye print etched throughout more casual coordinated sets is a motif simple enough to be styled seamlessly into everyday ensembles. All in all, a fantastic chapter in Di Petsa’s development and evolving response with her wide range of talents - her work has a lot more to say than we think.
