London Fashion Week’s Autumn Winter 21 season has proved to be anything but dainty, anything but self-doubting. There is a surging presence of unabashed sensuality with the celebration of the drama of the proverbial ‘next chapter’ - this is perfectly captured in Emilia Wickstead’s new collection inspired by cinema born from desire as an unstoppable divine force in the face of repressed traditionality. Reflecting on her teenage memories of Milianese architecture, tailoring and colour schemes, this collection is altogether more personal than I was expecting and I am pleasantly surprised. The presentation opens with a powdery purple pillared set - think smog by way of Pedro Almodovar - backed with a classical track finding a balance between the structure and unfamiliar stirrings. The path ahead is not quite clear but the mystery is very inviting. It is a great emotional base for Emilia’s mission; ‘Our heroine is at the precipice of discovery and transformation. One world is ending, and another is beginning. There is an energy to the season, an atmosphere of anticipation and confidence. A welcome quickening of pace.’ Freshed face and slicked back hair, handsome models embodying the classic Wickstead uniform with a new lease of life, just as quoted inspiration Guadaganino’s I Am Love’s protagonist Emma is realising her desire, the structure has changed to accommodate the daring rush of powerful exposed backs, collarbones and thighs with considered cutouts, never forcing the hand of any sexuality. I was reminded of the Venice sequence from Joanna Hogg’s The Souvenir with the opulent scarves draped across the body and dragging behind, the flirtations with the hallmarks of opulence manifesting through exaggerated roses on carved silhouettes, the gold brocade speaking for itself with minimal styling - the long coat interpretation of this with nothing underneath is delicious. The manipulation of traditional fabrics; wool garbadine, flanella and jersey against a colour palette of beige, olive green, purples and pastel blues feels like a reinvention happening before our eyes.
Companies
London Fashion Week
- Fashion and Textiles
