Op-Ed: Has Fashion Week Finally Become Less Exclusive?
As we head into FW23 showcases, we explore the ways in which access to fashion week has changed — according to the experts.
In 2022, reality star Kim Kardashian was photographed next to former Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour as they both sat in the front row for Jean Paul Gautier‘s show at Paris Fashion Week. Meanwhile, Diesel’s SS23 showcase in Milan saw 1,600 fashion students in attendance — making up a significant proportion of its audience — and Marine Serre’s recent PFW show? It was open to the public and accessible through a registration link on the brand’s website.
Whichever way you look at it, fashion week has slowly but surely become less exclusive, which leaves us to question who exactly today’s showcases are designed for. Once reserved for journalists and buyers, guest lists have since evolved to include the likes of influencers and celebrities — with some of the more democratic brands even paving the way for student attendees and emerging tastemakers.
So, how did we get to a place in the industry where reality stars can be given the same preference as lauded fashion critics? Or where students, who once had to fight their way into shows, are now being welcomed with open arms? We’ve taken it upon ourselves to ask the experts. Speaking to the British Fashion Council, designer Daniel Fletcher, Agency Eleven and TikTok, we’ve charted the evolution of the fashion week show, from its exclusive past to a hopeful, inclusive future.
What Was the Purpose of the Fashion Week Show?
Initially, the purpose of the fashion show was to present a new collection to a potential buyer in the hopes of establishing sales, however, they were often small, private presentations with little to no photography allowed, in a bid to prevent the designs from being copied. Eventually, small presentations turned into lavish parades and invite lists evolved to include people with influence as well as money, as brands began to understand the importance of publicity. However, back then, exclusivity was still key.
How Has It Changed?
Fast forward to the present day and the average fashion runway show is bigger and arguably more inclusive than ever, with models, performances and venues now specifically curated to encourage photography and spark discussion in the press.
In terms of the show’s purpose today, they’re “all about creating content and communicating the brand ethos,” according to Laura Dooley, founder of Agency Eleven. “The show really starts the season for the brand or designer and defines the direction of creative marketing straight through to when the product is available to buy. It really helps the designer or brand define who its target audience is.”
In the last few years, the realms of a showcase have continued to expand through a multitude of mediums and they’re no longer reserved only for the established designers either. “Over the past few seasons, we have seen an exciting mix of emerging and established brands bringing together fashion, culture, music, and technology through different types of formats and storytelling,” adds Caroline Rush, CEO of British Fashion Council, suggesting that plenty of change has taken place in the last few years.
For the full piece, head to: https://hypebae.com/2023/2/fashion-week-runway-show-evolution-access-daniel-fletcher-bfc-tiktok
