The Autumn Winter 2021 ‘Rock Swagger’ collection from Temperley London finds itself at home with a clear cut uniform of printed and beaded dresses, suits and co-ords that emphasise texture upon texture with an acid-singed colour palette and flared cuts. With so many ensembles trying to be stand out pieces, the initial inspiration and direction gets muddled in the aim of being appetising to everyone. Somewhat commercial? Yes. Is it worth your attention? Also yes. My own snobbishness aside, this collection presents a great opportunity to curate a selection of some items that just really *get it*. Embodying the revolutionary spirit of the late 60s and early 70s, a sometimes unnerving mirror to the social upheaval in the last year, the brand’s foray into velvet and leather tailoring is an androgynous treat that radiates the playful and sensual energy of Jimi Hendrix in a very accessible way. In my opinion, details make or break a suit and every detail here is just *so good*. The purple velvet suit; the longer cut blazer contrasting the shorter cut waistcoat to lengthen the body, the slightly darker tone of the neckscarf, the trousers being highwaisted, slim but not skintight, flared but not bellbottoms. The black leather suit; the Marlene Dietrich style high neck and pointed collar on the shirt offering just enough timelessness, the exaggerated lapel keeping it boyish enough, the seams on the front of the leather on the trousers that are cropped at that perfect point for that sensual energy. This leather suit was made for Zendaya, it seems. Keeping with the effortless longer silhouette, reminding me of Natacha Ramsay-Levi’s work at Chloe, flows like a dream with the hand painted flowers that bloom a la Art Nouveau. This collection is sexy through its sleek and ‘in the moment’ energy; in the detail of the ruffles, the structure of the shoulders, and through the channelling of spiritual artists who were just realising their power. This season’s offering from the brand will be a welcome addition to any capsule wardrobe - it is made to be accented with more modern styling, I keep picturing a pair of Stan Smiths with the firework motif studded leather jacket - a great statement piece that harkens to nights of protests and flares. The snakeskin sequin flowing dress is calling out to be styled with harsher and more industrial elements and I’d love to see what people come up with. One thing that sticks in my mind about this collection are the references to Studio 54. If anything, that era and what it meant was pure, unabashed liberation. When thinking about this, the references in the collection seems awfully restrained, especially when taking into consideration the grey studio shoot setup. On an impassioned note, the 70s gave birth to disco which has bled into every modern genre that surrounds us, the artistic innovations that this era gave to us feels like a missed opportunity with this particular collection. But being honest, I can completely imagine Grace Jones turning up to the club in just the long black leather belted coat
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London Fashion Week
- Fashion and Textiles
Original Magazine
- Arts and Culture
