Tokyo James’ Autumn Winter 21 collection named ‘OGIDI OKUNRIN’ (‘The Strong Man’) investigates the concept of unity and masculinity via the perspective of the modern Nigerian man. Ever fascinated with the idea of intersection, he proposes a conversation, a meeting of different perspectives of the masculine. In the presentational film, we appear to be in another reality. Items and the background is catching fire but nothing is burning. Look close enough and you can occasionally see Jupiter in the background. If this is what a remake of the Fifth Element looks like, sign me up. The stare from the models is unflinching and entrancing. The soundtrack makes me think of instruments used for rituals being put through Stephan Bodzin’s custom kit; completely aware of its power, layered with complex details and an undeniable statement. A perfect mirror to this collection. Proudly reinventing the British Dandy of the 60s with weaved fabrics, painstakingly rendered details and metal accents, hinting to the hardly straightforward path of masculinity welcoming a rich and varied colour palette. Just saying, the combination of the quilted leather jacket with unabashed sequin material in the form of a dress shirt is an absolute delight to look at. Remixing a suit into woven fabric with thick chainmail on the diagonal? Oh it’s perfect. The otherwise casual shirts with a slash across the front laced together? This is made for a rave. The streetwear inspired metal clips attaching to dramatically carved out harnesses? A styling dream. The cobalt quilted leather jacket? And the matching trousers, both with diagonal zips? I think I’ve made my point. With a desire to have his collection passed down generation to generation, representing aspects of masculinity through modern menswear staples; the utilitarian gilets, the two piece suit, the leather jacket, an iconic hat, the noir-reminiscent long coat, the leather trousers, the duffel bag, the harness and the few experimental pieces some only bring out for the heavy nights at festivals, it feels like I am seeing a core pillar of what dialogues and narratives can be infused into a collection as rich and rewarding as this. Using Saville Row tailoring techniques - you have to learn the rules that you want to break, after all - as many timeless provocateurs of runways past have, is a finishing touch for a collection that demands your attention. And for good reason. A fantastic showcase to finish off my London Fashion Week experience with.
Companies
London Fashion Week
- Fashion and Textiles
