A NEW SUSTAINABLE BLUEPRINT FOR FASHION SHOOTS
London-based sustainability and fashion-tech agency Techstyler and creative production house BBLS Studio have brought together pioneering fashion brands and platforms to create the world’s first sustainable, carbon calculated fashion editorial shoot. The project was delivered by prominent fashion brands sustainability credentials, including London-based Sabinna, BEEN London, Blackhorse Lane Denim, Marques Almeida and Patrick McDowell. International brands involved include Jacquemus, Gucci and Bottega Venetta, sourced from By Rotation and Vestiaire Collective. 7.9KG OF CO2 EMISSIONS HAS BEEN CONSUMED FOR THIS SHOOT
Have a look at www.bbls.studio
Have a look at www.bbls.studio
THE TRADITIONAL GLOSSIER CONSUMPTION
The pervasive mood of glossy fashion editorials has traditionally been one of unattainable ‘perfection’ and prohibitively expensive (aka aspirational) clothing. Some might say it is also elite and increasingly detached from the concerns and motivations of fashion purchasing in an era of the climate crisis, and now COVID-19. Sure, any kind of consumption requires resources and has a planetary impact. However some have more impact than others, and at a time when consumers are being asked to be more conscious and discerning regarding the sustainability credentials of their clothing, there is a lack of clear (but cool) fashion editorials and online content to inspire empowered and insightful fashion consumption – whether it be physical or virtual.
Dani (@dannisp00ner) wears jumper by Gucci from Vestiaire Collective, Jeans by London's BlackHorse Lane Denim, Shoes by Jimmy Choo from By Rotation and Earrings by Emma Aitchison
A LOW IMPACT PHOTOSHOOT SHOWS HOW MUCH CAN BE DONE TO MAKE THIS INDUSTRY MORE MINDFUL.
— Eshita Kabra-Davies, Founder of ByRotation
Jess (@jessylaw) is wearing jumper by Fabric For Freedom, jeans by Blackhorse Lane Denim and shoes by Marques Almeida from By Rotation
DEMYSTIFYING THE WORD SUSTAINABLE
To begin to demystify ‘sustainable’ fashion and present a broader representation of fashion to consumers, Techstyler and BBLS have conducted a fashion shoot where we considered every step of the process and selected clothing and accessories based on these pre-defined sustainability credentials: recycled (contains recycled materials), upcycled (remade from old materials/clothing), rental, resale, local manufacturing (UK), natural fibres only (no synthetic materials used, ie. no risk of microplastic pollution) and digital fashion. To demonstrate the sustainability features of each product in the shoot, symbols representing these 7 characteristics were included in the editorial imagery.
THE RULES
In creating an alternative blueprint for low impact fashion editorials, we employed these rules to cut carbon emissions and reduce waste:
- No couriers – all deliveries made using public transport or bicycle
- No single-use plastic packaging or consumables
- No food waste – used homemade food and the Karma app (rescuing leftovers from restaurants)
- No set or studio – all shots taken outdoors with natural light in local spaces
- Makeup used – organic, and cruelty and plastic-free
- Work with local designers and brands, where possible
- Models – sourced in partnership with Crumb Agency, shot with natural hair styling and no retouching
THE RESOURCES
The resource consumption for our low-impact shoot, including preparation and planning, was:
- 90 hours working on laptops
- Approximately 150 emails sent
- 24 camera hours (digital)
- 12 return London Underground journeys of average 9 miles each way
- 10 deliveries and returns by bicycle/on foot
- 2 deliveries/returns by car of average distance 1.5 miles
IN COMPARISON
By way of a simple comparison with the Vogue Italia shoot, 20 flights from London to Milan, for example, would generate 1,760 kg of CO2, without taking into account any of the other resources used, including electricity, cars, trains and shipping of clothing. This demonstrates what a huge impact shooting locally has on reducing carbon emissions.
Dani is wearing top by Matthew Williamson from Vestiaire Collective and striped jeans by Blackhorse Road Denim, shoes by Bottega Veneta from By Rotation and Handbag by BEEN London. Jess is wearing top and trousers by Sabinna
MAKE IT DIGITAL
Innovation agency and sister-company of Techstyler, BRIA, created the digital fashion pieces from their archive knitwear pieces. Although the blueprint we have created is a vast improvement on the traditional shoot format – the reduction in CO2 emissions by our blueprint is clear – we have to concede that this particular collaboration was unsustainable in the sense that the creative output of the shoot was not paid for. The Techstyler X BBLS teams created this as a proof-of-concept to formulate the blueprint for other creative teams to follow.
Jess is wearing dress by Jacquemus from By Rotation and boots by Maison Margiela from By Rotation. Dani is wearing Digital Elements by BRIA and boots by Patrick McDowell x Tabitha Ringwood
Dani is wearing digital cardigan by BRIA and jewellery by Emma Ware Design.
TOGETHER FOR A BETTER FUTURE
As Han Hates said - Blackhorse Lane Denim founder - the main reason to participate in the shoot is that they believe and sustain social sustainability.
“Social sustainability for us is about community -building and collaboration and through that, increasing know-how in each link in the social chain. We believe that this can only happen if you work locally, with local makers and partners.”
Brands featured in the shoot include Sabinna, designed and manufactured from end-of-roll fabrics in London; Patrick McDowell who operates a slow fashion business model incorporating upcycling and is also locally manufactured and accessories brand BEEN London, which uses recycled materials and manufactures in London, as well as Gucci, Jacquemus, Bottega Venetta and Maison Margiela pieces from Vestiaire Collective and By Rotation.
Dani is wearing dress by Voyage London from By Rotation and boots by Tabitha Ringwood X Patrick McDowell
Jess is wearing dress by Patrick McDowell and boots from Tabitha Ringwood X Patrick McDowell, earrings by Emma Aitchison
THIS PROJECT WAS CONCEIVED AGAINST THE BACKDROP OF CLIMATE CHANGE AND RISING ECO-ANXIETY.
Brooke Roberts-Islam - Founder of Techstyler and Forbes Journalist
Dani is wearing dress by Stine Goya from By Rotation, jewellery and handbag by Sabinna
ONE OF THE MAIN REASONS THAT WE DECIDED TO PARTICIPATE IN THE SHOOT IS THAT WE BELIEVE IN SOCIAL SUSTAINABILITY. SOCIAL SUSTAINABILITY FOR US IS ABOUT COMMUNITY-BUILDING AND COLLABORATION AND THROUGH THAT, INCREASING KNOW-HOW IN EACH LINK IN THE SOCIAL CHAIN. WE BELIEVE THAT THIS CAN ONLY HAPPEN IF YOU WORK LOCALLY, WITH LOCAL MAKERS AND PARTNERS. THIS WAS A GREAT OPPORTUNITY TO ACHIEVE THAT.
— Han Ates, Founder, Blackhorse Lane Denim
IT'S IMPORTANT TO GET AWAY FROM THE IDEA OF SUSTAINABLE FASHION BEING INFERIOR IN ORDER FOR THE MOVEMENT TO BE TAKEN SERIOUSLY.
Emma Ware, Designer
TECHSTYLER X BBLS
Gucci via Vestiaire Collective, Matthew Williamson via By Rotation, Bottega Veneta via By Rotation, Maison Margiela via By Rotation, Voyage London via By Rotation, Stine Goya via By Rotation, Jimmy Choo via By Rotation, Marques’Almeida via By Rotation, Blackhorse Lane Denim, Sabinna, Patrick McDowell, Tabitha Ringwood, BRIA digital fashion, Emma Ware, Emma Aitchison, BEEN London, Fabric for Freedom, Melissa
THANKS TO
Concept: Techstyler @techstyler and BBLS Studio Ltd @bbls.studio Art Direction and Photography: Beatrice Tamagnini @beatrice_tamagnini and Nicole Haines @nichai.va Video: Beatrice Lebrun @beatricelebrun_Styling: Alicia Ellis @aliciarobynellis Make up: Billie McKenzie @billie_mua Models: Crumb Agency @crumbagency Digital Garments: BRIA @bria_uk
Video Editing: Jorgina Elias @jorginaelias Graphics: Marco A Cacioni @m_a_cacioni Production: BBLS Studio @bbls.studio Sustainability analysis and brand curation: Techstyler @techstyler PR & Comms: Jordanne Young @jordanne_littlethoughts
Project Tags
Companies
Vestiaire Collective
- Fashion and Textiles
Melissa
- Fashion and Textiles
SABINNA
- Fashion and Textiles
Andrew Backhouse Design
- Design
