A redesign of the lukewarm hotel buffet has been long overdue in Britain. Enter Ethos - Soho’s Scandi-chic meat-free, weigh as you go, all day vegetable smorgasbord. Tucked off Oxford Street, the white-marbled tables and counters are surrounded by fairy-lit silver birch with a log fire at the back of the woodland.
It’s 1 p.m. and swarms of London’s media set are circling the three counters of the buffet, which are all vegetarian-friendly. Each dish is clearly labeled with a list of ingredients and allergy information albeit vegan, gluten, dairy or nut free. Grabbing an Ethos-branded plate, I opt for a medley of roasted, tahini-spiked cauliflower, chilli and sesame topped aubergine, and a black quinoa and chickpea salad crowned with pesto dressing and a dollop of hummus. Joining a communal table, a fellow diner has gone for the Instagram-famed signature Scotch egg accompanied by some pasta bake and vegan ribs. Asking his verdict, he commends the bread-crumbed egg as the perfect hangover cure. As I tuck in, I am met with pleasant surprise at the temperature and texture of the most taxing of vegetarian cooking: the aubergine.