Tour duration: Approx. 3HR
Starting point: Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese Pub
145 Fleet St, London EC4A 2BU
Introduction: Go back in time to the year1700 and imagine yourself as a resident of the old “City of London,” the heart of London's most ancient part. Take a break from your adventures and relax in one of the recently renovated pubs, Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, a historical spot frequented by literary giants such as Charles Dickens and Mark Twain.
As you sit down, you notice a small book on one of the chairs next to you. Upon browsing through it, you realize that it is none other than the legendary diary of Samuel Pepys, a British statesman and member of Parliament. The diary, spanning almost ten years of his life and comprising over one million words, provides a unique and honest depiction of life as a 17th century Londoner, including significant historical events such as the restoration of England, the great plague of London, and the great fire of London.
Your mission is to find Pepys and return his diary to him! As you navigate the city, you will visit historic pubs that are very family-friendly and offer a unique atmosphere. In these traditional British public houses (or pubs), everyone is welcome, and you can try some of the local food and drinks (age permitting). Embark on this adventure and immerse yourself in the rich history of London while enjoying family-friendly pubs along the way!
Did you know: Pepys wrote his diary in code using various Spanish, French, and Italian words to hide its content from his contemporaries. It took many years to decipher the diary into plain English.
Did you know: The great fire of London in September 1666 burned down most of the City of London, including over 13,000 houses. The fire started in a local bakery when the baker fell asleep, and the small fire quickly spread throughout the wooden houses and churches in the area. It took five days for the fire to subside, thanks to the strong east winds dying down and firebreaks that were created to stop it from spreading eastward.
First Stop: Dr Johnson's House
Address: 17 Gough Square, Holborn, London EC4A 3DE
You've arrived at Gough Square, where a famous writer is said to live. Perhaps they may have information about the whereabouts of Pepys. Follow the directions: go up Wine Office Court, take a left turn, then a right turn into Hind Court, and finally take a left into Gough Square. Look for the pub with a sign outside that will guide you to the writer's house.
Quiz time: What is the name of the writer who resides here? Look for the pub's sign to help you out.
Well done! You've correctly identified the writer's house as belonging to Samuel Johnson, also known as Dr. Johnson, one of England's most renowned poets. As you approach the house, Johnson himself steps out and tells you to ask the Irishman at the Tipperary pub. Head back to Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese and cross the street to find this pub.
Second Stop: The Tipperary
Address: 66 Fleet St, Temple, London EC4Y 1HT
Congratulations! You have arrived at The Tipperary, which claims to be the first Irish pub built outside of Ireland in the early 18th century. However, it actually dates back much earlier. When was ale first brewed at this premises? Answer: 1300
Great job! As the sign outside indicates, a monastery once resided in this area, where monks brewed ale. Because the pub was made of stone, it survived the great fire that consumed wood-built structures. Suddenly, the barman yells out: “You won’t find Pepys here! Try the Old Bell!”. Head down Fleet Street to number 95.
Third Stop: The Old Bell Tavern
Address: 95 Fleet St, Temple, London EC4Y 1DH
You meet the famous architect Christopher Wren at the Old Bell Tavern, the second oldest pub in London that he built after the great fire. He challenges you with a riddle: "What is the most famous church that I built here in the City of London?" Can you answer it?
Great job! You're right. St. Paul's Cathedral, one of the most iconic buildings in London, was rebuilt by Wren after the fire and took 33 years to complete. Wren then tells you to head to The Cockpit and ask around if anyone has seen Pepys. To get there, go down Fleet street and turn right on Creed Lane, cross Carter Lane, and continue down St. Andrew's Hill until you reach Ireland Yard.
5. Fourth stop: The Cockpit
Address: 7 St Andrew's Hill, London EC4V 5BY
You have arrived at The Cockpit. The pub's name refers to its historical past as a place for cockfighting. The pub was built on the site of a former cockpit, where cockfights were held during the 17th century. A man comes out of the side entrance saying: “If you want to know if Pepys is here, tell me, why is this pub called The Cockpit?”
Clue: Take a close look at the Pub’s sign
1. It was named after a famous British navy ship
2. The owner name was John Cockpit
3. There used to be rooster fights in the pub
4. They used to raise chickens at the back of the pub
That’s right! In the 18th century, the owners used to arrange cockfights in the pub’s gallery for the amusement of onlookers. This was quite a common pastime activity back in the day. You walk up to the gallery and see the crowd after a fight, but no sign of Pepys. The bartender says, “You might find Pepys at his usual spot, not far from here.” Go back to Carter Lane and take a left turn, continue down Carter Lane and make a right turn on Godliman Street, and then a left turn to Knightrider Street.
6. Fifth stop: The Centre Page
Address: 29-33 Knightrider St, St Pauls, London EC4V 5BH
You’re Here! But wait, what’s the name of this pub?
You're right! The pub has had many names over the years, including Horn Tavern, The Centre Page, and The Bugell. Pepys was known to frequent the pub, and in his diary, he referred to it as Horn Tavern, a casual spot for meeting friends and colleagues. The pub was also mentioned in one of Charles Dickens' stories, where the characters ordered "a bottle or two of very good wine, for which a messenger was dispatched to the Horn Coffee House." You approach the bartender and ask about Pepys, but he says, "You just missed him! He said he was heading south. Maybe you can catch up to him on the other side of the Thames!"
Take a right on Knightrider Street and continue down Sermon Lane. Cross the Millennium Bridge, and then take a left on Bankside. Continue until you reach the corner of Bank End.
Tip: After crossing the Millennium bridge, you will see the famous Tate Modern on your right. The gallery houses an impressive collection of modern and contemporary art, including works by Picasso, Warhol, and Hockney, among others. Admission is free, but donations are welcome. Be sure to explore the unique and thought-provoking exhibits, and don't miss the observation deck on the 10th floor, where you can enjoy stunning panoramic views of London.
7. Sixth stop: Anchor Bankside
Address: 34 Park St, London SE1 9EF
You are at Anchor Bankside pub, where Pepys is said to have sat and watched while London was burning.
When Pepys escaped from the City of London to the south bank, which bridge could have provided him with the shortest route?
You’re right! In Pepys' time, London Bridge was the only bridge across the Thames in the city, so it was certainly the best option for him to cross the river. As you continue on your journey, you reach a corner where you see an ancient wall that appears out of context with its surroundings. This is the remains of Winchester Palace, which was originally built in the 12th century as a residence for the powerful Bishops of Winchester. Today, only the ruins of the Great Hall and some walls remain, but it is still an impressive sight. Take a moment to appreciate the history and grandeur of this once magnificent palace. To continue your search for Pepys, turn right onto Stoney Street and head south. Keep an eye out for any signs of the famous diarist!
Did you know: The Anchor is a historic pub that has been around since 1822, but it may have existed even earlier. Some stories suggest that Shakespeare himself visited the pub after opening nights at the nearby Globe theatre. The site where the pub is located was also used for plague pits in the early 17th century. However, the most significant story associated with the Anchor is that Samuel Pepys watched the Great Fire of London from here. In his diary, he wrote that he went "to a little alehouse on the Bankside ... and there staid till it was dark almost, and saw the fire grow." The pub has been renovated over the years, but still retains its historical charm.
8. Seventh stop: Winchester Palace
Address: Pickfords Wharf, London SE1 9DN
To what structure did this wall belong to?
Correct! This wall is actually the remains of Winchester Palace, which belonged to the Bishops of Winchester in medieval London. The palace was one of the most important buildings in London at the time and served as the residence of the bishops, who were some of the most powerful figures in medieval England. For your next stop, continue straight ahead through Pickfords Wharf and you will see another interesting sight: a large ship.
9. Eighth Stop: Golden Hinde
Address: Pickfords Wharf, London SE1 9DN
You’re here! This is a recreation of a famous ship. Look closely at the nose of the ship, you will see a figurehead that gave the ship its name. What is it?
Well done! You have correctly identified The Golden Hind, a historic ship with an incredible story. The gatekeeper kindly suggests checking out the pubs in the vibrant Borough Market area for more leads on Pepys. To get there, simply head towards Winchester Square, turn left onto Cathedral street which eventually becomes Bedale street. Then, take a right turn onto Borough High street and continue until you reach number 75.
10. Ninth stop: The George
Address: 75-77 Borough High St, London SE1 1NH
Congratulations, you've arrived at The George, one of London's last remaining Galleried Inns. This historic establishment dates back to the Middle Ages, and although it was destroyed by a fire in 1676, it was rebuilt the following year. The George is widely regarded as one of the most notable pubs in the area, so it's definitely worth stopping by to see if Pepys is there.
Before you go in, answer this: who is the owner of the pub?
Correct! The National Trust is responsible for the conservation of places of historic interest and heritage, and this is the only pub that it owns. As you step inside, you take a moment to appreciate the history and character of the building. And then, to your surprise, you spot Pepys sitting in a corner. As you approach him and hand over his diary, he looks up at you with surprise and gratitude. "I can't believe you found my diary!" he exclaims. "I was beginning to lose hope."
You order a pint and settle down next to him, eager to hear his tales of old London.