Thom Browne S/S21 Preview
Rosie Fitter
PARIS Fashion Week Mens digital platform has included a wide range of content – with brands and fashion houses competing for digital presence – some of the films present more like an avant-garde piece of conceptual art than a collection debut. Thom Browne’s first look at his Spring/Summer 2021 collection is no exception to this.
Directed by and starring American singer-songwriter Moses Sumney, Browne’s showcase held an artistic, minimalist appeal that spoke of classical simplicity. Classical undertones will be present in his new collection, which is intended to have Olympic themes.
We were given a taste of this in the preview video – Sumney’s athletic outline stands statuesque on a plinth against a white background, his chiselled torso often featuring solely in shots. The skirt he is wearing features an intarsia stripe in an allusion to athletic costume. Sumney sings the Olympic Hymn, translated into multiple languages, while sporting Beats headphones – an indicator of the brand’s collaboration with the company.Wearing statement rings and a full-length sequin skirt, Sumney’s movements are emphasised by the flowing sequin material as he sways and contorts his figure. This performance and get-up subverts gender norms and stereotypes – undertones which often punctuate Browne’s designs.
His SS20 collection similarly saw a re-examination of traditional menswear with male models in tutus, hooped skirts and jockstraps over micro-shorts. This year’s collection will again see a dual-gendered show, continuing an exploration of unisex themes.
Browne’s work to dismantle archaic notions of gender specific clothes and performance are an important break-away from fashion and social dictates. Here’s hoping that the rest of the fashion world will follow suit.
by Rosie Fitter
Thom browne and beats by dre will launch a limited-edition collaboration to benefit a charitable foundation – more information coming soon.View the S/S21 collection preview below:
